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Step into this cocina and away from the loud,
tourist-packed asphalt of St. Marks Place, and you find a
starkly different environment. La Palapa's earth tones, well-spaced
tables and subdued lighting make you feel like you're in
a thatched-roof hut (a.k.a. palapa) on a balmy beach. You're
soon presented with three salsas bursting with fresh ingredients.
The best (and tough to find in New York) is the reddish-brown
guajillo -- it tastes like a blend of smoky barbecue
rub and spicy, chunky pico de gallo. Shredded jicama,
sprinkled with chili powder and lime juice, is refreshing.
Order a side of guacamole -- an exquisite blend of salty,
sweet and tangy, with the perfect balance of creamy and lumpy
textures. The chalupas con chorizo casero consist
of seasoned, ground chorizo and queso fresco with a good
dose of lime juice, layered atop corn cakes. Entrees also
hit the right notes. Grilled Muscovy duck with sesame seeds
is rich and juicy when ordered medium-rare, and drizzled
with the robust, bitter-chocolatelike mole that La Palapa
is known for. Swiss chard and toasted-pumpkin seed sauce
add a nice bite to the mild cod filet. Finish with an empanada
de arroz con leche, a cinnamon turnover
filled with sweet rice pudding. And that's only one of the
delicious desserts. If poet W.H. Auden were alive and still
living upstairs, he'd ruminate about the sublime food at
La Palapa for inspiration. |
