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A St. Marks Place storefront does not bode well for any
restaurant, let alone a Mexican one that claims to offer
"authentic" cuisine. But ignore the place at your
peril. La Palapa's renditions of cocina Mexicana --
cod fillet with green pumpkin-seed sauce, ancho chili-braised
barbecue lamb shanks, chicken slow-cooked with guajillo chilies
and avocado leaves -- will send you home stuffed but still
salivating. Familiar, oft-mauled standards like tacos and
enchiladas are given the consciousness-raising treatment
here: Enchiladas are topped with queso fresco as well as
green tomatillo or red mole sauce, and the tacos
are stuffed with fresh-grilled bistec or chili-rubbed
roasted chicken. |
