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MEXICO CITY
Various NYC eateries have tamed Mexico City's classic portable
snacks, brought them indoors and even dressed them up a
bit. A fanccier, East Village version of a fonda, La
Palapa serves the kind of homestyle food co-owner Barbara
Sibley remembers from her Mexico City childhood. Elote
del mercado ("market
corn," $3.95) is juicy, bursting corn on the cob slathered
with mayonniase, lime, ground pequin chile and queso
fresco (fresh, mild cheese).
OAXACA
La Palapa serves a stellar example of the laborious sauce,
which takes three days to make and requires separate roastings
of the chilies, seeds, and spices (no small feat, when
ingredients include peanuts, almonds, cinnamon, raisins,
sweet plantain and licorice-flavored avocado leaves).
The finished product has fruity overtones, which pair
well with muscovy duck breast ($17) and a subtle nutty
essence that emerges when served over tiny meatless tamales. |
